A Sermon on German (Wine) 03/12/11
Despite my noble quest to provide coverage of the major wine countries around the world, it seems that, more than three months into my career as a drunken blogger, I’ve still neglected to discuss the oenological offerings of Germany. But unless you have no sense of continuity at all, by now you can probably tell that I’m about to. So, relax.
Germany, of course, is very well-regarded for its beers, but German wine is nothing to scoff at either – and not just because Germany will declare war on you if you scoff at its wine. The most popular varietal in the country is Riesling, a white wine grape best suited to cool climates, for which I’ve already expressed my love on several occasions. Being that Riesling actually hails from Germany, I will admit it’s a bit puzzling that I’ve yet to turn to the Vaterland for review fodder.
Jew though I am (my last name is Cohen), I can assure you I hold no grudge whatsoever against German wine – and especially not the Riesling. In fact, during World War II, Rieslings defected from the Nazi Wehrmacht in record numbers, and many even later came to fight alongside the Allies in the Pacific Theater.
Today I’ll be reviewing a descendant of one of those brave bottles, the Georg Mosbacher 2007 Forster Riesling Kabinett, from the Pfalz region, which ran me around $18. Riesling can come in a variety of styles, from trocken (dry) to süss (sweet), and I’ve got to admit I was expecting a dryer one – little did I know that Mosbacher actually puts the word trocken on those.
But hey, we all make mistakes – yes, even me – and sometimes we just have to man up and drink them. Thankfully, this Riesling proved more than potable from my perspective, residual sugar be damned. In the glass it poured a brilliant, inviting lemon-yellow, with aromas of apricot and orange peel. On the palate it was sweet, but still not cloying, thanks to crisp acidity which balanced it out nicely. Flavors of honey, peach and orange accompanied a nice bite which, together with the color of the wine, left me with an overall impression of sweet electricity in a bottle.
I award this Georg Mosbacher Riesling thumbs up. It may have been sweeter than I usually care for, but it was pretty lecker nonetheless (lecker as in the German word for delicious, and not Mr. Lecker, my middle school principal, who reminds me more of cheap gin).