Cabernet or Caber-yea? The Irony of Irony 01/08/11
So once again, I find myself reviewing a wine from California, and once again, I must beg my readers’ forgiveness. Yes, I am weak. But let me just make one thing clear: there’s no shame in buying wine solely because of a cool name or bottle gimmick – just like you have every right to pass on a wine when it has a label graphic that’s trite or insipid.
Enter the 2008 Irony Cabernet Sauvignon, produced by Irony Wine Cellars in Napa Valley. I picked this up for $14 when I was browsing through a local state store one day because, let’s face it, I’m a very funny person. When I saw this bottle, I knew it could only mean one of two things: either I’d finally found a wine ironic enough to live up to my hilarious standards; or I was quite literally about to drink an irony Cabernet, marred with the unpleasant tinge of liquid metal.
Well, there was only one way to find out for sure! Luckily for me, this way happened to involve drinking.
I poured a glass to find the wine’s hue a young, dark, mostly clear purple. The nose presented blackberry and chocolate aromas, as the bottle indicated, but not really the tobacco the bottle also indicated. On the other hand, notes of black cherry and blackcurrant shone through on the palate, so this label description actually went four for five in the end, which is more than I can say for most. The wine was full-bodied with a fruity attack, mid-palate tannins and good acidity to mask its 14.5% alcohol.
But most importantly: does the Irony Cab Sauv live up to its name? I guess it is a little ironic that only 83% of the wine is made from the eponymous grape (with 5% from Merlot, 2% Syrah, 2% Petite Sirah, and 8% Other), but I’m afraid this wine was rather straightforward overall.
I award the 2008 Irony Cabernet Sauvignon thumbs up – while still allowing for the possibility that the joke was, in fact, on me the whole time.